Monday, 27 June 2011

V8648 - adjustments.

I let Dom choose my next project and this is the one he chose. I also let him choose the view, as I was stuck between the blue version and the red checked version. He chose the red checked version, which I'm happy with as I like the sleeves :)
So onto the pattern adjustments. I've started to record the adjustments I make on the amazing notepad that I won in Nina's giveaway at The Vintage Family.
Now in case you can't make out my crazy scrawling, I took photos of the pattern pieces before and after so I could explain the steps I made. I started with a size 14.
The side bodice front. As you can see I've made an FBA. I tissue fitted the front and determined that I needed about an inch extra. It needed to be added to the side piece not the front piece, so following Fit For Real People I ended up with the piece shown above. This also added an inch to the waist, which was perfect as I need the extra room.
The back piece. I think I have a narrow back. I always seem to have too much fabric in the back and the armhole goes too far into my armpit. So I made a 1.5cm narrow back adjustment. I'm not sure if this will be enough, but its a start. If it seems to help, but the back is still gaping then I'll do another adjustment and record how much I needed. You can also see that I added an inch to the side so I'd have enough room in the waist. The narrow back adjustment changed the armhole and shoulder seam, so I measured the new shoulder seam and adjusted the front shoulder seam so it matched. Then I measured how much the back sleeve piece needed to be altered to fit this new armhole. I needed to raise the sleeve cap by 1cm as that was how much the shoulder seam had been reduced by. I also needed to take 1.5cm of of the underarm seam on the back sleeve piece so it matched the underarm bit of the back piece.
I just realised I forgot to take a photo of the actual front piece (not the side front piece, which is shown above as the FBA piece). All I did to it was add length to it in the corresponding place and amounts so that it matched the side front piece.
The waist peices. Yep, I'm really short waisted. I shortened them by 2 inches. Then added the inch to side pieces so that they matched the bodice pieces. This means that the waist is now a size 18 (instead of the 14 that I started with). So as for the skirt, I'll just cut the 18 out so it matches the waist seam.
This took me 3 days, working for an hour or two a day. Yes I am slow. But working on the floor is uncomfortable, and I get pins and needles in my feet every half an hour so have to shake it off! lol It's really hard to explain what I did without showing you in person. Hopefully you have a vague understanding :) Writing it down also helps fix it in my head so I don't forget. The notepad helped a lot as it meant I didn't forget to do things to other pieces. For example, I'm sure I would have forgotten to add the extra to the sleeve cap if I hadn't written it down!
I'll cut out a muslin soon, and test the alterations I made. I hope that if I need to make any more alterations, they are only minor so I can go straight onto the real thing :) And of course I'll share photos with you lovely lot.
More later!
Ashley x


  1. Wow, that was really useful to see your photos and your explanations of what you did.

    I haven't made any clothes for weeks, one of the reasons being I can't really get my head around adjusting patterns and as a fatty they need to be adjusted quite a bit.

    Would love to do a pattern fitting/cutting course one day....

    S x

  2. Glad you found it useful to see :) I'm rubbish at explaining though lol
    I'd absolutely love to do a course, maybe pattern drafting or something :)
    Ashley x

  3. great post, i am always scared to change anything - but it should be done! so well done you! x

  4. I'm with you! Working on the floor is sooo uncomfortable! I look forward to see the progress on this. Love the print.

  5. Hi Ashley
    Just to let you know I nominated you for a versatile blogger award on my blog =)
    Hayley x

  6. Definitely Miss Ginger! Especially on my funny shaped self! lol
    Thanks Suzy, I'm a sucker for prints!
    Wow, Hayley thank you! I'll pop on over and take a look :D
    Ashley x

  7. Wow, all your pattern adjustments are so clever! I really need to work out how to adjust patterns, and there is some good information here :) Also i love the print - can't wait to see the finished dress!

  8. Really handy to see your adjustments. I like these details as it helps me relax and know im doing things right myself. Saying that i wont be making clothes till after xmas now due to pregnancy but i can still look :D

  9. Kat, I recommend Fit for real people. That's the book that I used for my adjustments :) It's really helpful in identifying the adjustments that you might need.
    Lianne, I know what you mean! Even if I don't need to do a particular adjustment for myself, I still find it interesting to see how an adjustment is done :) Aww, congrats on the pregnancy! :)
    Ashley x


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