Thursday 8 September 2011

Pendrell Dress - part 1

So I've decided to make the Pendrell blouse pattern into a fitted dress. Why? Because I want a princess seamed dress and the Pendrell blouse is the closest thing I have. 
The inspiration for this comes from one of the dresses I bought last week. It fits surprisingly well, and I love how flattering the princess seams are. 
Excuse the shoeless-ness. I love the shape of this dress, and the neck line detail is amazing (I'm sure there was a tutorial on the Colette blog a while ago, but I can't remember what the technique is called to search for it!). I wear the dress with a belt at the waist too, so it makes my waist look nice and small :) What surprises me most about this dress is that it's a Miss Selfridge dress! It was the most expensive dress that I bought (though I got student discount on it as I bought it from House of Fraser). The dress is a size 14 but it fits! I think a 16 would have looked good too, but I like how close fitting it is. It was kind of an impulse buy, as I saw it in the window as we walked past. I don't usually go in House of Fraser as the floor is all wonky and it makes me feel travel sick after a few steps in there. But I wanted that dress! :) 
So the first thing I needed to do was address the extra ease in the Pendrell blouse. After studying the finished garment measurements, I decided to go two sizes smaller than what my actual measurements. I was pretty sure this would be ok. And I was right! Mostly. Here's the back:
I made no alterations to it at all! Other than to add a zip of course. Though I discovered that I can get in and out of it without the zip, but it's a tight fit and I'd rather not put too much stress on the seams. However, the front obviously required quite a large FBA. I split some of this between the front piece and did most of it on the side front piece. Here it is after pinning out some excess:
As you can see I lowered and re-shaped the neckline. Then there was some excess length in the front that I tucked out. It was also gaping out under my chest so I pinned it out. Looking at the photo I also noticed that there is a little bit of bumpy gaping going on at the sides of the neckline. The stripes also emphasise my boobs which isn't a good look! lol Thankfully none of the fabric that I have is stripey. But I think the general shape is ok, though I think I'll let it out a little in the side to give me a smidge more room in the chest. I just need to add length to make it dress length, and maybe add a bit of flare to the skirt. 
Once I have the shell fitting ok, I'm going to draft a peterpan collar (using Casey's tutorial) which will be a contrast colour in the final dress. I'm also going to test out whether the sleeve from Colette patterns Ceylon will work. If it does, then I'm also going to add a contrast colour cuff to the sleeve. If it doesn't, then I'll add a little capped sleeve and bind the rest of the armhole. 
So how on earth do I go about making my changes to my paper pattern?! And ignoring the optical illusion of the stripes, do you think the fit is ok so far? Hopefully I should have muslin number 2 ready soon once I've worked out how to transfer my changes to paper.
Ashley x

9 comments:

  1. Clever idea to make a Pendrell dress. And to lower the neckline, which should make it more comfortable.

    As for transferring markings back to the pattern ... take the muslin back apart so that you can compare the alteration marks with the original? Perhaps you could just hold the pattern pieces up to the muslin if you didn't want to go that far.

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  2. Hmm, yes I'm thinking a sharpie marker to mark where I've made the tucks and then taking it apart with a seam ripper. I'll leave the back intact, and then cut a new front to check it's all good. I think once I've got the front apart, I'll lay the tissue over the pattern piece and trace the sharpie marks.
    Or something like that :)
    Ashley x

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  3. Here's a lace yoke tutorial from Colette Patterns that Rachel did a while back. This might be what you're thinking of.

    Oh muslin fitting -- I'm still working on my Rooibos and I have a hollow chest and small bust so my brain hurts from all the alterations -- neckline gapes waaaaaay too much, and it seems like neckline is too wide in general for my petite frame and is falling off shoulders. I made 2 muslins, consulted multiple books and resources, did an SBA...I have to make a third muslin and hopefully will get it right! It's in my UFO pile right now, LOL. It's projects like these that made me wish I was a normal B-cup or something.

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  4. Thanks! :)
    Oh isn't it a pain?! I breathed a sigh of relief when I saw the back because it fits ok. I've spent forever trying to get the back right on a pattern before, never mind the front! As for cup size, I would LOVE to be a B cup! I'm an E cup and FBA's that big are not fun!
    Ashley x

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  5. The fit looks great. You're certainly having more luck with princess seams than I have. I'm tempted to buy this pattern, so will be intruiged to see how your pendrell-dress works out. Good luck!

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  6. Oh, I'll be very interested to see how this works out in the end, but it's looking good so far.

    Out of interest, is the Miss Selfridge dress a knit or a woven? And the new pattern's for a woven? I was in the shops today for the first time since the A/W lines were put out and ohhh, I wanted so many things! But then reminded myself that they wouldn't fit anyway. Fitting shells shall have to be the way to go if I ever have any time to sew ever again....!

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  7. Thanks Lucy and Law :) The main fabric is a woven, but its fully lined and the lining has a slight stretch to it. I've noticed the woven fashion fabric/stretchy lining combo on a couple of my new dresses. It's a good idea I think :)
    Ashley x

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  8. You are completely fearless aren't you? I am watching in awe!

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  9. Haha, fearless or foolish, take your pick ;)
    Ashley x

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Thanks for the comment!

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